There’s no bridge to Smith Island. No causeway, no car ferry, no traffic lights. You get there the way islanders have for nearly 400 years: on a boat, across about twelve miles of open Chesapeake Bay.
What’s waiting on the other side is one of the most unusual places on the East Coast. Smith Island, Maryland is home to a few hundred people in three small fishing villages ringed by marsh. They still make a living from crabs and oysters, still talk with an accent you won’t hear anywhere else, and still bake the tall, skinny-layered chocolate cake that became Maryland’s official state dessert.
This guide walks you through everything: every Smith Island ferry and cruise option, current fares, where to eat crab cakes, where to buy Smith Island cake (on the island and off it), how to get around, and a simple plan for your day.
How Do You Get to Smith Island, Maryland?
You can only reach Smith Island, Maryland by boat. The easiest option is Smith Island Cruises from Somers Cove Marina in Crisfield, which leaves at 12:30 p.m. (Wednesday to Sunday in season), takes about 50 minutes, and gives you roughly 2.5 hours on the island. There’s also a seasonal cruise from Point Lookout on the Western Shore, year-round passenger ferries from Crisfield City Dock, and guided tours run by islanders.
Smith Island at a Glance
| Location | Chesapeake Bay, about 12 miles west of Crisfield, Somerset County, MD |
| Villages | Ewell, Rhodes Point and Tylerton |
| Getting there | Boat only. No bridge, no cars |
| Main ferry port | Crisfield, Maryland |
| Known for | Smith Island cake, crab cakes, watermen culture, marsh scenery |
| Best time | Late May to mid-October |
| Time needed | A day trip, or one night to slow down |
In This Guide
- Where is Smith Island MD?
- Smith Island ferry and cruise options
- Best things to do on Smith Island
- Smith Island cake: history, recipe and where to buy
- Where to eat
- Day trip and overnight itineraries
- FAQs
Where Is Smith Island, Maryland?
Smith Island MD sits out in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, west of Crisfield on Maryland’s lower Eastern Shore, right on the line between Maryland and Virginia waters. It isn’t one solid island but a cluster of low, marshy ones, cut through with narrow channels. It’s Maryland’s only inhabited offshore island.
Captain John Smith mapped the area in 1608, and English settlers arrived later that century. Today there are three villages:
- Ewell, the largest, where most boats dock and where you’ll find the museum, restaurants and bakery.
- Rhodes Point, a smaller village joined to Ewell by a road through the marsh.
- Tylerton, the tiniest and most remote, on its own island with no road connection at all.
How Far Is Crisfield From Major Cities?
Most people drive to Crisfield first and catch the boat there. Here’s roughly how long that drive takes.
| From | To Crisfield | Drive Time |
|---|---|---|
| Salisbury, MD | 37 miles | 45 min |
| Ocean City, MD | 60 miles | 1 hr 15 min |
| Annapolis, MD | 125 miles | 2 hr 15 min |
| Washington, DC | 150 miles | 2 hr 45 min – 3 hr |
| Baltimore, MD | 155 miles | 2 hr 45 min – 3 hr |
Is Smith Island Worth Visiting?
Yes, if you’re curious about real Chesapeake Bay life and you love seafood, Smith Island is worth the trip. Just don’t expect a tourist town. There are no souvenir strips or big attractions here. The island itself is the attraction.
What you get instead is a working watermen’s community, wide open marsh, crab cakes made from crab caught nearby, and a slice of cake with more layers than seems reasonable. On a standard day trip you’ll have about two and a half hours, mostly in Ewell. It’s a slow, quiet afternoon, and that’s the whole point.
Smith Island Ferry: How to Get to the Island
This is where most people get confused. There are several boats, and they work very differently. If you’re searching for a ferry to Smith Island MD, here’s each option in plain terms.
Option 1: Smith Island Cruises From Crisfield (Best for a Day Trip)
This is the classic way to go. Smith Island Cruises leaves Somers Cove Marina in Crisfield at 12:30 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday in season (no Monday or Tuesday trips). The ride takes about 50 minutes, and you get roughly 2.5 hours on the island before heading back the same afternoon.
Reservations are required, so book ahead on the Smith Island Cruises website. You pick up tickets at the Captain Tyler Motel in Crisfield, and parking at the marina is free when you book with them. Aim to arrive by noon.
| Passenger | Published 2026 Fare (Crisfield) |
|---|---|
| Adult | $35 |
| Child, ages 3–11 | $18 |
| Child under 3 | Free |
The company also runs seasonal cruise-and-crab-feast packages that bundle the boat ride with a seafood meal and a slice of traditional cake. It’s a nice option if you want lunch sorted before you board.
Option 2: Smith Island Cruises From Point Lookout (Western Shore)
Coming from DC, southern Maryland or Virginia? The same company runs a longer trip from Point Lookout Marina in Ridge, Maryland. It leaves at 10 a.m., Thursday through Sunday in season, and takes about two hours each way, with around 2.5 hours on the island.
That’s a long day on the water. But you skip the Bay Bridge traffic, and the open-bay crossing becomes a big part of the adventure.
Option 3: Year-Round Passenger Ferries From Crisfield City Dock
These are the boats islanders actually use. They carry people, mail, groceries and freight, and typically leave Crisfield’s City Dock around 12:30 p.m., with separate boats for Ewell and Rhodes Point, and for Tylerton.
Here’s the catch: the regular return usually leaves the island early the next morning, around 7:30 a.m. Some boats add afternoon runs in summer, but not every day. So unless you’ve confirmed a same-day return with the captain, plan to stay the night.
Fares are paid to the captain, often in cash only, and schedules shift with the weather. Always call ahead. The Smith Island Cultural Center’s “Getting Here” page lists the current boats and phone numbers.
Option 4: Guided Tour With Smith Islanders
For the deepest look at island life, book a small-group tour with Experience Smith Island. The owners grew up on the island and run full-day trips from Crisfield on a traditional deadrise workboat.
Tours usually visit all three villages, including Tylerton, which you’d otherwise miss. Expect a crab cake lunch, a look at crabbing and a cake demonstration. It costs more than the cruise, but it’s the best pick if you care about the stories behind the place.
Option 5: Your Own Boat
Boaters can tie up at the county dock in Ewell or at a private marina for a fee. The run from Crisfield is about 11 to 12 miles across Tangier Sound. Watch the charts: the channels are shallow at low tide, and the Sound can turn rough quickly.
Smith Island Ferry Options Compared
| Option | Departs | Ride | Time on Island | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Smith Island Cruises (Crisfield) | Somers Cove Marina, 12:30 p.m., Wed–Sun | ~50 min | ~2.5 hrs | Classic day trip |
| Smith Island Cruises (Point Lookout) | Ridge, MD, 10 a.m., Thu–Sun | ~2 hrs | ~2.5 hrs | Western Shore visitors |
| Passenger/mail ferries | Crisfield City Dock, ~12:30 p.m. | ~45–60 min | Usually overnight | Overnight stays, Tylerton |
| Experience Smith Island tour | Crisfield | ~50–60 min | Full guided day | Culture, all 3 villages |
Best Things to Do on Smith Island
With two and a half hours, you won’t do everything, and you don’t need to. Here’s what’s worth your time, roughly in the order most visitors see it.
1. Eat a Crab Cake Lunch in Ewell
The cruise boat pulls up almost at the door of the Bayside Inn Restaurant, and most passengers head straight in. Good call. The crab comes from the water around you, and the crab cakes and soft-shell sandwiches are what people are still talking about on the ride home.
If it’s packed the moment the boat lands, explore first and come back for a later lunch. Just keep one eye on the clock.
2. Eat a Slice of Smith Island Cake (Then Buy One)
You can’t come all this way and skip it. Order a slice after lunch, then stop by the Smith Island Bakery in Ewell for more flavors and whole or half cakes to take home. There’s more on the cake’s story, recipe and where to buy it further down.
3. Visit the Smith Island Cultural Center
A short walk from the dock, this is the best place to understand what you’re looking at. Watch the short film about the three villages, then browse exhibits on crabbing, oystering, traditional workboats, island churches and the local way of speaking. Admission is just a few dollars, and there are restrooms and a small gift shop.
4. Rent a Golf Cart or Bike and Ride to Rhodes Point
Ewell is easy on foot, but to reach Rhodes Point you’ll want wheels. Smith Island Cruises rents golf carts (for 2 or 4 people) and regular bikes from the Bayside Inn carryout, by the half hour, hour or 2.5 hours.
The road runs straight through open marsh, and it’s one of the prettiest parts of the visit: herons in the grass, crab shanties out on the water, and hardly another vehicle in sight. Drive slowly and wave. This is someone’s neighborhood.
5. Watch the Working Waterfront
Smith Island doesn’t feel like a recreated maritime village, because it isn’t one. You’ll see workboats tied up at family docks, stacks of crab pots and watermen coming in from the bay.
Treat these spots as workplaces, not museum exhibits. Stay off private docks, and ask before photographing people. Islanders are friendly and often happy to chat if you say hello.
6. Look for Birds and Marsh Wildlife
Much of the northern part of the island is protected as Martin National Wildlife Refuge, and the whole area is great for birding. Look for great blue herons, egrets, ospreys and, in warmer months, brown pelicans. Bring binoculars for the marsh road, and keep watching on the boat ride too.
7. Kayak the Marsh Water Trails
If you stay overnight, paddling is one of the best ways to see the island. Marked water trails wind through thousands of acres of marsh, and a popular route links Ewell and Tylerton, about 2.25 miles each way. Check the wind and tides before heading out. Open water here gets choppy fast, so this is best for paddlers with some experience.
8. Wander Ewell and Stop by the Post Office
Some of the best moments here are small ones. Step into the tiny post office, which feels like it’s barely changed in decades. Grab a coffee at The Roost. Let kids play at Jack and Pickles, a little waterfront snack and arcade hut. Or just sit by the harbor and watch the boats come in.
9. Visit Tylerton (If You Can)
Tylerton is the smallest, most isolated village, and standard day cruises don’t go there. You’ll need a guided tour, the Tylerton passenger ferry, a kayak or your own boat. If you make it, Drum Point Market is known for its crab cakes. Hours are limited, especially off-season, so call first.
Smith Island Cake: History, Recipe and Where to Buy
Smith Island cake is a tall cake made of eight to ten paper-thin layers of yellow cake, with chocolate fudge frosting between every layer. Maryland made it the official state dessert in 2008.
Why So Many Layers?
The story islanders tell goes back to the watermen. Wives baked these cakes to send along when the men went out on the bay for long stretches, and the thin layers and fudge icing helped keep the cake from drying out. Over the years, the cake became part of the island’s identity, and baking one is still a point of pride.
Smith Island Cake Recipe Basics
If you’re searching for a Smith Island cake recipe, you’ll find small differences from baker to baker. The idea stays the same, though. The batter is spread very thin and baked in several pans at once, each layer for only a few minutes. Then the layers are stacked with a warm, pourable chocolate frosting that sets as it cools.
Yellow cake with chocolate icing is the classic. These days you’ll also see coconut, caramel, strawberry, lemon and other flavors. Every slice shows off those striped layers, which is why it photographs so well.
Smith Island Bakery vs. Smith Island Baking Company
These names get mixed up all the time, so here’s the difference:
- Smith Island Bakery is on the island, in Ewell. It’s where day-trippers buy slices and whole cakes during their visit.
- Smith Island Baking Company has its storefront on the mainland, at 45 West Chesapeake Avenue in Crisfield. It’s open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., and now ships cakes nationwide through Goldbelly. See the Smith Island Baking Company website for details.
So you don’t have to cross the bay to get a cake. But eating a slice on Smith Island itself, still full of crab cake, with the harbor in view, makes it taste a little better.
Where to Eat on Smith Island
Choices are few and mostly seasonal, so check hours before relying on any one spot. Depending on the season, look for crab cakes, soft-shell crabs, steamed crabs, seafood platters and, of course, cake.
| Place | Village | Good For | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bayside Inn Restaurant | Ewell | Crab cakes, soft shells, cake | Right by the cruise dock; seasonal lunch hours |
| Bayside Inn Carryout | Ewell | Ice cream, shakes, cart rentals | Seasonal |
| Smith Island Bakery | Ewell | Smith Island cake, baked goods | Order whole cakes ahead |
| The Roost | Ewell | Coffee, sandwiches | Casual, quick stop |
| Drum Point Market | Tylerton | Crab cakes, deli, cake | Limited days, especially in winter |
Good to know: Smith Island is a dry island, so alcohol isn’t sold, though visitors can generally bring their own. Carry some cash too, because not everything takes cards.
Practical Tips Before You Visit Smith Island
- Book and confirm your boat. Sailings are limited, and trips can be canceled when the bay gets rough.
- Don’t miss the return boat. Missing a city bus is annoying. Missing the last boat off an island with no bridge is a much bigger problem. Be at the dock early.
- Bring bug spray in summer. The island is surrounded by marsh, and biting flies can be fierce.
- Pack sun protection and water. There’s little shade on the boat deck or the marsh road.
- Carry cash for passenger ferries, rentals and small shops.
- Check the marine forecast, not just the weather on land.
- Accessibility: the island is flat, but boarding involves docks and steps. Call the boat operator ahead if you need help.
Best Time to Visit Smith Island
The best time to visit Smith Island, Maryland is late May through mid-October, when the day cruises and restaurants are running. Within that window, early June and September are the sweet spots: warm weather, calmer water and fewer bugs than midsummer.
July and August have the most sailings but also heat, humidity and biting flies. In winter the island goes very quiet. The day cruises stop, restaurants close or cut hours, and a visit usually means an overnight stay on the passenger ferry.
How Much Time Do You Need on Smith Island?
For most first-time visitors, one day is enough. A standard cruise gives you time for lunch, cake, the cultural center and a golf cart ride to Rhodes Point. Stay overnight if you want to kayak, catch sunset over the marsh, or see Tylerton. The island feels completely different once the day boats leave.
Smith Island Maryland Itineraries
One-Day Smith Island Itinerary
Morning: drive to Crisfield. If it’s a weekday, stop at the Smith Island Baking Company storefront on West Chesapeake Avenue.
11:30 a.m.: pick up your tickets at the Captain Tyler Motel and park at Somers Cove Marina.
12:30 p.m.: board the boat. Grab a seat up top if it’s nice, and treat the crossing as part of the trip, not dead time.
About 1:30 p.m.: land in Ewell. Rent a golf cart and ride out to Rhodes Point while the lunch rush dies down.
About 2:15 p.m.: late lunch at the Bayside Inn: crab cake, then a slice of Smith Island cake. Pop into the cultural center afterward.
Before departure: pick up a cake at the bakery, snap a photo at the post office, and get back to the dock early.
Two-Day (Overnight) Smith Island Itinerary
Day 1: take the midday passenger ferry from Crisfield City Dock. Check in, have lunch and cake, visit the cultural center, and explore Ewell and Rhodes Point. Stay out for sunset over the marsh. It’s remarkably quiet once the day-trippers leave.
Day 2: wake up early to watch the watermen head out. Then either catch the morning boat back or spend the morning kayaking to Tylerton before a later return (confirm boat times first).
Turn It Into an Eastern Shore Weekend
Crisfield has plenty to fill a weekend. Camp and paddle at nearby Janes Island State Park, take the separate cruise to Tangier Island in Virginia, and eat steamed crabs in town. Our Janes Island State Park guide covers kayaking and camping just minutes from the Smith Island ferries.
Smith Island Experiences Compared
| Experience | Best For | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Exploring Ewell | First-time visitors | 1–2 hrs |
| Smith Island Cruises | Getting there plus bay views | Half day |
| Crab cake lunch + cake | Food lovers | 45–60 min |
| Golf cart or bike ride | Seeing more in less time | 30 min – 2.5 hrs |
| Cultural center | History and island life | 30–45 min |
| Kayaking | Nature and photography | Several hours |
| Overnight stay | Slow travel, Tylerton | 1–2 nights |
| Smith Island Baking Company | Cake shopping in Crisfield | 20–30 min |
Where to Stay for a Smith Island Trip
On the island: a handful of small inns, B&Bs and vacation rentals operate in Ewell and Tylerton. Book early, and confirm your ferry at the same time.
In Crisfield: small motels, including the Captain Tyler Motel where cruise tickets are picked up, make the midday boat easy. Campers can stay at Janes Island State Park, a few minutes from town.
Near Point Lookout: look for lodging in St. Mary’s County, or camp at Point Lookout State Park.
When booking, compare prices across the main booking sites and read recent reviews, since options are limited and standards vary.
What to Pack for Smith Island
- Insect repellent for marsh flies and mosquitoes
- Sun hat, sunglasses and sunscreen for the boat deck
- A light windbreaker, since it’s always breezier on the water
- A small insulated bag to carry your Smith Island cake home
- Binoculars for birds along the marsh road
- Comfortable shoes and a reusable water bottle
- Cash, plus the boat operator’s phone number saved on your phone
Looking for a Different “Smith Island”?
Search results sometimes mix Smith Island, Maryland up with unrelated names. Just to be clear: TV personalities like Hannah Smith and Molly Smith from Love Island, Billy Smith of the New York Islanders, and general searches for “island Smith” have nothing to do with this place.
Captain Smith’s Seafood in Solomons Island is a different Maryland location too, on the Western Shore. This guide is only about visiting Smith Island MD in the Chesapeake Bay.
Smith Island FAQs
Can you drive to Smith Island, Maryland?
No. There’s no bridge or road to the island, and you can’t bring a car. Visitors arrive by boat and get around on foot, by bike or by golf cart.
Where does the ferry to Smith Island MD leave from?
Most visitors leave from Crisfield: Smith Island Cruises from Somers Cove Marina, or the passenger ferries from the City Dock. There’s also a seasonal cruise from Point Lookout on the Western Shore.
How long is the boat ride from Crisfield to Smith Island?
About 50 minutes on Smith Island Cruises, and roughly 45 to 60 minutes on the passenger ferries. From Point Lookout it takes about two hours.
How much is the Smith Island ferry?
Smith Island Cruises’ published 2026 fares from Crisfield are $35 for adults, $18 for children ages 3 to 11, and free for children under 3. Prices can change, so check before booking.
Can you visit Smith Island in one day?
Yes. Smith Island Cruises from Crisfield and Point Lookout give you about 2.5 hours on the island and return the same day. Most year-round passenger ferries return the next morning.
What is Smith Island famous for?
Smith Island is famous for Smith Island cake, crab cakes and soft-shell crabs, its centuries-old watermen culture, wide marsh landscapes and its distinctive local accent.
Is Smith Island cake really Maryland’s state dessert?
Yes. Smith Island cake was named Maryland’s official state dessert in 2008.
How many layers are in a Smith Island cake?
Usually eight to ten very thin layers, though recipes vary from baker to baker.
Where can I buy Smith Island cake?
On the island at the Smith Island Bakery and the Bayside Inn in Ewell, or on the mainland at the Smith Island Baking Company storefront in Crisfield (Monday to Friday). The Baking Company also ships nationwide.
Do I need to reserve Smith Island Cruises in advance?
Yes. Reservations are required, and summer weekends can fill up.
Is Smith Island good for families?
It can be, especially for kids who like boats, golf carts, wildlife and dessert. Children expecting rides or big attractions may get bored, so keep the day simple.
Final Thoughts: Is Smith Island, Maryland Worth the Boat Ride?
Smith Island isn’t somewhere you go for nightlife or a packed checklist. It’s almost the opposite. You ride a boat across the bay, eat a crab cake, drive a golf cart through the marsh, and carry home a cake with far too many layers.
Along the way, you get a glimpse of a way of life that’s still holding on in the middle of the Chesapeake, shaped by tides, weather and families who’ve never wanted to be anywhere else. Go slowly, be kind, and don’t miss the boat home.
Planning more Maryland day trips? Try our guide to the best things to do in Ellicott City, an easy trip from Baltimore and DC.