Most summits end in a pile of rocks or a patch of grass. Black Elk Peak ends with a castle. At the top of South Dakota’s highest mountain, a stone fire tower built in 1938 sits right on the granite, as if it grew out of the rock. Climb its stone stairs, step onto the lookout, and the Black Hills roll away in every direction: dark pine forests, bare granite spires and, on a clear day, the plains of four states.
The Black Elk Peak Trail is one of the best day hikes in the Midwest. The classic route, Trail #9 from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, is about 7 miles round trip with roughly 1,500 feet of climbing through pine forest and granite country. It’s a real workout, but no climbing skills are needed.
This guide covers everything: Trail #9 step by step, the Trail #4 loop past Little Devils Tower, distance and elevation, what’s at the summit, the peak’s history and new name, park fees, wilderness rules, the best season, and how to hike it safely in winter.
November 2026 note: Late fall and winter bring snow and ice to the upper trail, and the summit can be bitterly cold and windy. Needles Highway (SD 87) closes to cars in winter, so plan to reach Sylvan Lake from the town of Custer on Highway 89 and check SD511 for road conditions. Bring microspikes from November to April. Sylvan Lake Lodge and park dining are seasonal and closed in winter.
Black Elk Peak: The Short Answer
Black Elk Peak (formerly Harney Peak) is South Dakota’s highest point at 7,242 feet, in the Black Elk Wilderness of the Black Hills. The most popular route is Trail #9 from the Sylvan Lake Day Use Area in Custer State Park: about 3.5 miles each way (roughly 7 miles round trip) with about 1,100 to 1,500 feet of climbing, taking most hikers 4 to 5 hours. You need a Custer State Park entrance license ($25 per vehicle for 7 days) and must fill out a free wilderness registration card on the trail. The summit has a historic 1938 stone fire tower. Best season: late May to early October.
Quick Facts
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Location | Black Elk Wilderness, Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota |
| Main trailhead | Sylvan Lake Day Use Area, Custer State Park |
| Summit elevation | 7,242 ft (some sources list 7,244 ft) |
| Trailhead elevation | About 6,200 ft |
| Trail #9 distance | About 3.5 miles one way; about 7 miles round trip |
| Trail #4 / #9 loop | About 7 to 8 miles |
| Elevation gain | About 1,100 to 1,500 ft total, with ups and downs |
| Time | 4 to 5 hours (allow 6 with long breaks) |
| Difficulty | Moderate to strenuous |
| Fees | Custer State Park entrance license: $25 per vehicle for 7 days |
| Permit | Free wilderness self-registration on the trail |
| Dogs | Allowed; leash required in the state park |
| Bikes and strollers | Not allowed in the wilderness |
| Summit feature | Stone fire lookout tower (built 1938) |
| Best season | Late May to early October |
Where Is Black Elk Peak?
Black Elk Peak rises in the heart of the Black Hills of western South Dakota, between Custer State Park and Mount Rushmore. The summit sits inside the Black Elk Wilderness, a 13,500-acre protected area of Black Hills National Forest, the only federal wilderness in the Black Hills. The most popular trails start just outside it, at Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park.
| Driving to Sylvan Lake from | Approximate time |
|---|---|
| Custer (town) | About 15 minutes |
| Hill City | About 20 to 25 minutes |
| Keystone / Mount Rushmore | About 40 to 50 minutes (longer via Needles Highway) |
| Rapid City | About 1 hour |
| Badlands National Park | About 2 hours |
Can you drive to the top? No. The summit is in a designated wilderness, so the only way up is on foot (or horseback on some trails).
Is It the Highest Peak East of the Rockies?
You’ll often hear that Black Elk Peak is the highest summit in the U.S. east of the Rocky Mountains, and it’s the highest point in South Dakota for sure. The “east of the Rockies” claim depends on how you draw the line, though. Lost Mine Peak in Texas’s Chisos Mountains is taller (7,547 feet) and sits slightly farther east. (If you’re heading to Texas, see our Lost Mine Trail guide.) Either way, at 7,242 feet it’s far higher than anything in the Midwest or the eastern states.
From Harney Peak to Black Elk Peak
Until 2016, the mountain was called Harney Peak, after U.S. Army General William S. Harney, whose troops attacked a Lakota (Sicangu) camp in 1855, killing women and children. For decades, Lakota people asked for the name to change. On August 11, 2016, the U.S. Board on Geographic Names voted to rename it Black Elk Peak, and the state accepted the change a week later.
The new name honors Black Elk, a Lakota holy man. As a 9-year-old boy, he received his “Great Vision” on this mountain. He returned here late in life with writer John Neihardt, whose 1932 book Black Elk Speaks shared his story with the world. The peak and the Black Hills (He Sapa) remain deeply sacred to the Lakota and other tribes. You’ll often see colorful prayer ties and offerings near the summit; please leave them untouched.
Fees, Parking and Wilderness Registration
- Custer State Park entrance license: Required to park at Sylvan Lake. A temporary license is $25 per vehicle and is good for 7 days in Custer State Park. South Dakota’s annual state park license ($40 for residents, $60 for nonresidents) also works. Buy at a park entrance station or online.
- Wilderness registration: Free. Where the trail enters the Black Elk Wilderness, you’ll find a registration box. Fill out a card, drop one part in the box and carry the other with you. It helps rangers know who’s out there in an emergency.
- Parking: The Sylvan Lake Day Use Area has restrooms and a decent-sized lot, but on summer weekends it fills by mid-morning. Arrive before 8 a.m. If it’s full, try the other Sylvan Lake lots, but never park on the road shoulders.
Which Trail Should You Take?
Several trails lead to Black Elk Peak. These are the main options, with the summit trail number in brackets:
| Route | Approx. distance | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Trail #9 out and back from Sylvan Lake | About 7 miles round trip | First-timers; most direct and best-marked route |
| Trail #4 up, Trail #9 down (loop) | About 7 to 8 miles | More granite scenery, Little Devils Tower area, fewer people |
| Trail #9 plus Little Devils Tower side trip | About 9 to 10 miles total | Strong hikers who want a bonus scramble |
| Willow Creek Trail #8 (north side, near Hill City) | About 6 to 7 miles round trip | A quieter forest approach from the other side |
| Norbeck Trail #3 and Grizzly Bear Creek routes | Longer, varies | Experienced hikers seeking solitude |
Our advice: if it’s your first time, take Trail #9 up and back. If you’re feeling strong and want more variety, do the Trail #4/#9 loop. South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks has a free Black Elk Peak trail map PDF on its Custer State Park trails page. Download it before you go, because cell service is patchy.
Hiking Trail #9 From Sylvan Lake: Step by Step
1. Sylvan Lake to the Forest (Mile 0 to 1)
Start at the Sylvan Lake Day Use Area. The Trail #9 trailhead is near the parking lot by the lake. Look for the big trail sign. Sylvan Lake itself is gorgeous, a calm mirror ringed by giant granite boulders, so take a minute before you set off.
The trail heads into a forest of ponderosa pine on a wide, well-worn path. The first mile climbs gently. You’ll notice many dead, gray trees. The mountain pine beetle killed huge numbers of pines here in the 2000s. They’re part of the landscape now, but they can fall in strong wind, so don’t linger under leaning snags on windy days.
2. Entering the Black Elk Wilderness (Around Mile 1)
Soon you’ll reach the wilderness boundary and the registration box. Fill out your free card here. Past this point, no bikes, strollers or motorized equipment are allowed, and the trail feels wilder.
3. The First Big Views (Miles 1 to 2)
The trail climbs to a high point with a viewpoint where you get your first look at Black Elk Peak in the distance, with the tiny stone tower on top. It looks a long way off. It’s closer than it seems. Granite knobs and spires poke up out of the forest all around you.
4. Down, Then Up Again (Miles 2 to 3)
Here’s the part people don’t expect: the trail actually drops for a while before climbing again. That’s why the total climbing (around 1,500 feet) is more than the difference between the trailhead and the summit. Pace yourself, and remember you’ll climb this dip again on the way back.
5. The Junctions
As you get closer, Trail #9 meets several other trails, including #3, #4 and #7. Signs are posted, but follow the ones for Trail #9 / Black Elk Peak. If you’re planning to come down on Trail #4, note where it branches off now.
6. The Final Climb and the Stone Steps
The last half mile is the steepest and most fun. The trail winds up through granite boulders, then climbs stone steps and a metal staircase built into the rock. It’s not technical, but steps can be slick when wet or icy. Watch for mountain goats here. They often hang around the summit rocks.
7. The Summit and the Fire Tower
You come up a final set of stairs and through a stone doorway into the lookout tower. It’s built so tightly into the granite that it’s hard to tell where the rock ends and the walls begin. Climb up to the top of the tower and look out. Ridge after ridge of the Black Hills spreads below, with sharp granite pinnacles like the Cathedral Spires sticking up through the forest, and on clear days the plains stretch toward Wyoming, Nebraska and Montana.
Explore the summit area, find a sheltered spot out of the wind, and enjoy your lunch. Just keep kids close. There are steep drops around the tower and the rocks.
8. Back to Sylvan Lake
Head down the same way. Remember the climb back out of the dip in the middle. Most people take 1.5 to 2 hours to get back. Reward yourself with a walk around Sylvan Lake at the end. It’s a flat, 1-mile loop through the boulders.
The Trail #4 Loop and Little Devils Tower
Trail #4 (the Little Devils Tower Trail) starts from a trailhead along Needles Highway just east of Sylvan Lake, or from the Sylvan Lake area. It’s rockier and steeper than #9, with more granite scenery and fewer people. Many hikers go up #4 and down #9 to make a loop of about 7 to 8 miles.
- Little Devils Tower: A short side trail from #4 climbs to a granite summit with a superb view of the Cathedral Spires and Black Elk Peak. The last bit is a hand-and-foot scramble. Skip it if you’re not comfortable on steep rock.
- Cathedral Spires: A cluster of tall granite needles. Trail #4 links to the Cathedral Spires Trail, which starts on Needles Highway. Visiting the spires adds distance.
- Navigation: The loop crosses several junctions. Carry a map and double-check trail numbers on signs.
- Winter: Needles Highway closes in winter, so the #4 trailhead on the highway may not be reachable by car. Use Trail #9 from Sylvan Lake instead.
Distance, Elevation and Time
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| How far is it from Sylvan Lake? | About 3.5 miles one way on Trail #9 |
| Round trip? | About 7 miles (GPS apps show 6.5 to 7.5) |
| How much climbing? | About 1,000 ft net; about 1,100 to 1,500 ft total |
| How long does it take? | 4 to 5 hours for most; fast hikers in about 3 |
| Will you feel the altitude? | Maybe a little. You’ll be between 6,200 and 7,242 ft. Go slow and drink water. |
How Hard Is Black Elk Peak?
It’s a moderate to strenuous hike. Trail #9 is well built and easy to follow, with no scrambling, but 7 miles with constant ups and downs at over 6,000 feet adds up.
- Beginners: Very doable if you’re reasonably fit. It’s often the first “real” mountain hike people do. See our hiking for beginners guide.
- Kids: Plenty of families with kids aged 8 and up make it. They love the tower. Watch them closely at the summit.
- Dogs: Allowed. Keep them on a leash in Custer State Park, and on a leash or under strict voice control in the wilderness. Bring water for them.
- Wheelchairs and strollers: Not possible. Wheeled equipment is banned in the wilderness, and the trail is rocky with steps.
The Historic Fire Tower
People have used this summit to watch for wildfires for more than a century. In 1911, the first lookout sat up here on a wooden crate. A small wooden cabin followed in 1920. Then, in the 1930s, young men from the Civilian Conservation Corps hauled stone and mortar up the mountain and built the tower you see today, finished in 1938. It was last staffed as a working fire lookout in 1967.
Today the tower is open to hikers to explore. Look for a stone dam the CCC built nearby to hold water for the lookout keepers, and a small plaque at the base marking where the ashes of Valentine McGillycuddy rest. He led the first recorded climb of the peak in 1875 and later became a respected figure among the Lakota, who gave him a name meaning “Holy White Man.”
Please don’t climb on the tower walls, carve or write on the stone, or move anything you find.
What Can You See From the Top?
- The Black Hills: Endless forested ridges and valleys in every direction.
- Granite spires: The Cathedral Spires and the Needles, jagged towers of 1.7-billion-year-old granite.
- Four states: On very clear days, people say you can see into Wyoming, Nebraska and Montana as well as South Dakota. Haze or smoke often limits this.
- Mount Rushmore? You can see the back side of the Mount Rushmore area from some spots, but you won’t see the presidents’ faces. They face the other way.
Best Time to Hike Black Elk Peak
| Season | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Spring (April to May) | Snow and ice can linger near the summit into May. Mud lower down. Quiet trails. |
| Summer (June to August) | Peak season. Warm days, wildflowers and busy parking. Afternoon thunderstorms are common, so summit by late morning. |
| Fall (September to mid-October) | Cool, clear and gorgeous, with golden aspens and birch in the valleys. Fewer crowds after Labor Day. Our favorite time. |
| Winter (November to March) | Snowy, icy and quiet. Needles Highway closed. Microspikes, warm layers and short-day planning required. |
Don’t forget the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally in early August: roads, campgrounds and hotels across the Black Hills get extremely busy that week.
Weather and Safety
- Lightning: The summit is the highest point for hundreds of miles, a natural lightning target. On summer afternoons, storms build fast. If you hear thunder, get off the summit right away.
- Wind and cold: It’s often 10 to 20°F cooler and much windier on top than at Sylvan Lake. Bring a jacket even in July (see our waterproof hiking jacket picks).
- Falling trees: Beetle-killed snags can topple in strong wind.
- Ice: The stone and metal steps near the top get very slick in winter.
- Mountain goats: They look friendly but are wild and strong. Stay at least 50 feet away and never feed them.
- Rescue is slow: The Forest Service warns that help can take a long time to arrive in the wilderness. Tell someone your plan.
Hiking Black Elk Peak in Winter
A snowy summit with frosted pines and an empty stone tower is magical, and many locals hike it year-round. Just plan carefully:
- Reach Sylvan Lake from Custer on Highway 89. Needles Highway is closed to cars.
- Wear microspikes and waterproof boots. Snowshoes help after big storms.
- Start by late morning at the latest. Days are short and the temperature drops fast after 3 p.m.
- Carry a headlamp, extra warm layers, a hat and gloves.
- Check road conditions on SD511 before leaving.
What to Pack
- 2 to 3 liters of water. There’s no reliable drinking water on the trail.
- Lunch and snacks for the summit
- Hiking shoes with good grip
- A warm layer and wind or rain jacket
- Sun protection: the high-altitude sun is strong
- Trekking poles for the rocky descent (see our budget trekking poles)
- A headlamp (see our budget headlamp picks)
- The trail map, downloaded or printed
- A pen for the wilderness registration card
Use the restrooms at Sylvan Lake before you start. There are none on the trail.
Black Elk Wilderness Rules
- Register (free) at the wilderness boundary.
- No bikes, strollers, carts or motorized equipment.
- Groups of no more than 25 people (including horses).
- Dogs on a leash or under strict voice control (leash required in Custer State Park).
- No camping within a quarter mile of the summit, or in the tower.
- Camp at least 100 feet from water elsewhere in the wilderness.
- Open fires only at designated sites.
- Don’t cut switchbacks, and pack out all trash.
These are federal rules, and fines can be steep. More importantly, they protect a place that’s sacred to many people.
Camping and Where to Stay
- Sylvan Lake Campground: Right next to the trailhead, perfect for an early start. Book early on the Custer State Park reservation site in summer.
- Sylvan Lake Lodge: A historic stone lodge above the lake with rooms and cabins, open seasonally (roughly May to October).
- Other Custer State Park campgrounds and lodges: Center Lake, Legion Lake, State Game Lodge and others.
- Towns: Custer and Hill City have plenty of motels, cabins and restaurants and are both close by.
- Backpacking: Allowed in the wilderness (follow the camping rules above), but you can’t camp anywhere in Custer State Park outside designated campgrounds.
A Sample Day in the Black Hills
- 7:30 a.m.: Park at Sylvan Lake, use the restroom and start up Trail #9.
- 8:00 a.m.: Register at the wilderness boundary.
- 10:00 a.m.: Reach the summit. Explore the tower and eat lunch.
- 11:00 a.m.: Head down before afternoon storms.
- 12:30 p.m.: Walk the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail and dip your feet in the lake in summer.
- Afternoon: Drive the Needles Highway (in season) through its narrow rock tunnels, or head out on the Wildlife Loop Road to look for bison.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Forgetting the park entrance license. You need one to park at Sylvan Lake.
- Skipping the wilderness registration. It’s free and takes a minute.
- Starting at noon in July and getting caught by a thunderstorm on top.
- Not expecting the middle dip, which means a climb on the way back too.
- Mixing up trail numbers at the junctions near the top.
- Driving to the Trail #4 trailhead in winter when Needles Highway is closed.
- Getting too close to mountain goats for a selfie.
Black Elk Peak FAQs
How long is the Black Elk Peak hike?
About 7 miles round trip on Trail #9 from Sylvan Lake (about 3.5 miles each way). The Trail #4/#9 loop is about 7 to 8 miles.
How long does it take?
Most people take 4 to 5 hours, including time at the summit.
Is Black Elk Peak hard?
Moderate to strenuous. It’s not technical, but it’s 7 miles with about 1,100 to 1,500 feet of climbing at over 6,000 feet.
How tall is Black Elk Peak?
7,242 feet, the highest point in South Dakota. Some surveys list 7,244 feet.
Do you need a permit?
You need a Custer State Park entrance license to park at Sylvan Lake ($25 per vehicle for 7 days) and a free wilderness registration card, filled out on the trail.
Which is better, Trail #9 or Trail #4?
Trail #9 is easier and more direct, best for first-timers. Trail #4 is rockier with more granite scenery. Many people go up #4 and down #9.
Can you go inside the fire tower?
Yes. Hikers can walk through and climb up the stone lookout tower. Follow any posted signs.
Are dogs allowed on the Black Elk Peak Trail?
Yes. Keep them on a leash in Custer State Park and on a leash or under strict voice control in the wilderness.
Is Black Elk Peak the same as Harney Peak?
Yes. It was renamed Black Elk Peak on August 11, 2016, to honor the Lakota holy man Black Elk.
Can you hike Black Elk Peak in winter?
Yes, with microspikes, warm clothes and an early start. Reach Sylvan Lake from Custer, since Needles Highway closes in winter.
Can you see Mount Rushmore from Black Elk Peak?
Not the carved faces. They face away from the peak. You can see the general area from the summit on clear days.
Is there a Black Elk Peak trail map PDF?
Yes. South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks offers a free Black Elk Peak trail map on its Custer State Park trails page.
Is Black Elk Peak Worth It?
Absolutely. It’s the best hike in the Black Hills and one of the most memorable summits in the middle of the country. In one morning you get a lakeside start, quiet pine forest, granite spires, a stone tower straight out of a storybook and a view across four states, all on a mountain with a deep spiritual history.
Buy your park license, start early, register at the wilderness boundary, and be off the top before the afternoon storms. Then sit by Sylvan Lake and look back up at the tiny tower you just stood on.